Iceland is a sparsely populated country with residential clusters in every nook and cranny. Mjóifjörður, which is 18 km long and 2 km wide, is one example of a remote destination off the beaten track and often referred to as one of the most remote parts of Iceland. In Mjóifjörður fjord (which translates to narrow fjord) time stands still. It is a magnificent fjord with a tiny village, Brekkuþorp village, located on the east coast of Iceland and completely isolated during the winter, as Mjoifjordur can only be reached by sea from November to May. The fjord is connected with a road over Mjóafjarðarheiði (a heath) to ring road one. Mjóifjörður is only 90 minutes drive away from the much better known Seyðisfjörður in the north and a quick 60 minutes drive from Egilsstaðir. Which makes it an easy and ideal stop to make. Despite its isolation the fjord is quite stunning in its simplicity. Mjóifjörður provides an excellent opportunity to explore nature in a country that specialises in unspoiled out-of-the-way places. The road into the fjord is breathtaking. Given that it is only open during the peak of the summer, it is highly recommended to prepare well for the journey.
Exploring Mjófjördur fjord in Iceland is an adventure not to be missed if you are attracted to remote destinations off the beaten track both summer and winter. Sólbrekka Holiday Homes offers a unique opportunity to unwind whether you are visiting Iceland during the 24 hours daylight months or if you want to experience the essence of remote dwellings during more extreme weathers and dark months. Sólbrekka Holiday Homes offers you the taste of Mjóifjörður through its catering service, a sense of care through Icelandic hospitality with direct contact to your host and peace and quietness, hard to find these days, in pure untouched nature.
Mjóifjörður surely is a destination off the beaten track.
Here is a little insight into history, the population has been unstable through the years and been dwindling the last decade. As an example of the changes throughout the years, in the year 1904 for example, one hundred and twenty years ago, the population in Mjóifjörður peaked with 412 registered inhabitants, of which 156 were in Brekkuþorp village. In 2005 however, the population was 42, of which 35 were in the village and with only around 10-11 people residing in the fjord the whole year round as of today. There is therefore no cornershop or fast food joint, you are entirely one with nature.
What is there to do?
Mjóifjörður is known for its natural beauty and hiking options, and as thus attracting more and more visitors and is now becoming a popular tourist destination during the summer as people are seeking more remote places and tranquility. Travelers keen to discover one of the country’s most off-the-beaten-track routes can easily spend the day exploring a beautiful fjord starting with a unique interventure with nature, the Klifbrekkufossar waterfalls or ´climbing slope waterfalls´ as it translates to English. The 90 meter high seven tier crystal clear spring water waterfall, can be found at a pristine location at the head of Mjóifjörður. Its interesting shape, like several waterfalls on top of each other, makes it earn its place on the list of unique waterfalls in Iceland.
As the road reaches the shoreline of the fjord, you will have reached Pramminn, an American landing craft rusting away, remaining to remind us of the old herring times that once blossomed in the fjord. Brekkuþorp,the Brekka Village, is a tiny and friendly village covering the steep hill above the harbour, down to the harbour, and stretching to the church. Brekkuthorp village has only 10 inhabitants, offering accommodation and catering facilities and a welcome break on the bumpy drive through the fjord. You will also find a small church, Mjoafjardarkirkja church, built 1892 in the typical Icelandic architecture. On the opposite side of the fjord you will find Asknes, which houses the remains of the old whaling station, once the largest whaling station in the world. However, attention has to be kept if the plan is to reach there in the first half of the summer months due to the low quality of the road. It is advisable to have a well equipped car.
The fjord´s winding road leads out to Dalatangi, where there is another tiny cluster of houses and a weather station, with further 3 inhabitants, that began operating in1938. On your way, just after leaving Brekkuthorp village, you pass a beautiful waterfall named Heljarfoss while crossing a bridge with a perfectly formed gorge, the Hofsárgljúfur gorge. Beyond Hofsárgljúfur there is a small inlet, Smjörvogur, that once housed prisoners as it was considered a safekeep for outlaws,due to its remoteness. A lighthouse has been located at Dalatangi since 1895, with significant importance to Icelandic fishermen.
Furthermore, Mjoifjordur fjord boasts incredible solitude and pristine nature steeped in myth and legend. For example, the Prestagil gorge, also known as the Priest’s Gorge. According to local folklore, a troll woman is alleged to have captured priests and brought them into the gorge to eat them, which gave its name to the gorge.
After reading this, you truly can see how time has stood still in Mjóifjörður. On your quest searching for the essence of Iceland, as in untouched or unspoiled nature, which Iceland is all about, and or how life was prior to modernisation, Mjóifjörður is your key to connecting to the spirit of isolated Icelandic nature where tranquility is king and nature the queen.
How do the inhabitants go about their lives?
From the beginning and for centuries, livelihoods were based on land and sea, almost all settlements were close to the coast. Today, there is a small fishing industry, some farming and hospitality is the main source of income for the inhabitants where hospitality is mostly available during the summer months of June to September. However, Sólbrekka Guesthouse is making it possible to book the cottages in the winter. In collaboration with the boat ferry, guests can be ferried over from the neighbouring village Neskaupstaður on Thursdays and Mondays.
Salmon farming began in the fjord in 2001. However, in early 2006, the company announced that it would have to cease operations and move its operations to the Faroe Islands. The Solbrekka Holiday Homes keeps the tradition in the fjord alive by offering their infamous grilled sandwiches and Icelandic doughnut ´Kleina´ with your coffee as a reference to the prosperous times. If it isn’t savoury treats you are after, the tasty waffle with a generous serving of whipped rich Icelandic cream would definitely tick your boxes.
The landscape in Mjóifjörður is challenging, the coast is steep and not very far inland, the previous fishing grounds were far from the interior settlements and the surf rough and often dangerous during the winter months. Today the little fishing that is done in the village, is very close to the harbour. Cultivation and leveling of fields, often in the worst conditions, was carried out with great effort, a work that took the longest of time using what was available at the time, namely only hand tools.
It is exactly the harshness of nature that has made Mjóifjörður so attractive to visitors today and that contributes to its leading position as one of the most interesting off-the-beaten-track destinations on the island. Exploring Mjóifjörður fjord in Iceland is high on the must do bucket list for everyone. It has rightfully earned its position as an outstanding and interesting fjord rich in history.
How to get there?
By Road: off the ring road take road 935 during the summer months June to September, the duration of access depending on the weather in the Spring and Autumn. The roads in Mjóifjörður are like the rest of the country, but the roads to Dalatangi are steep and narrow gravel roads.
By Ferry: Mjóifjörður – Neskaupstaður
Passengers and freight are transported between Mjóafjörður and Neskaupstaður on regular scheduled trips during the winter.